|
I spent three weeks in Laos. Laos is probably one of the most beautiful countries in the world, and the people are nice, friendly, peaceful, and happy. I felt like at home there -- in the most positive sense of the word. I will definitely return to Laos, hopefully on a bicycle. |
|
|
In general, Laos is a country of villages and peasants. The country is
simple, the people are simple, the language is simple. The most common
greeting is sabai dii, which means "good health". "Thank you" is
khop tjai, which means "soul answer". Some more words for you:
A long time ago, Laos was called Lane Xang Hom Khao -- "Million elephants and white parasol". The main bank in Laos is still called Lane Xang Bank. I think "The Bank of Million Elephants" sounds a lot better though ;-) |
|
|
Laos is developing quite fast. In Vang Vieng, the guesthouse across the street was "nine days old". In 3 weeks, they had set up an Internet Service Provider in Vientiane. They say Beerlao produced 34 million litres a year, up from 2 million the previous year. |
|
|
But luckily not everything is changing. People aren't becoming more stupid in less time. They don't watch too much TV. I talked to a 19-year old tour guide; he said he can't have a girlfriend yet -- he doesn't have a house and good job, he can't support a family. "Well, yes, I could run away with some girl, and sleep with her", he explained to some frenchmen, "but I don't want to do that. I want to find a good wife and marry her". |
|
There is a definite "backpacker trail" in Laos. It goes from Vientiane up
to Luang Prabang, and then onwards to Udomxai, Luang Nam Tha and Muang Sing.
If you are travelling in Laos, I urge you to spend some time off that trail.
For instance, go to north-east Laos -- Phonsavan, Nam Noen, Sam Neua,
Phongsali.
Life is different there; very few people speak English, there aren't many tourists around, lots of UXO. The Annamite Chain is very beautiful. Places like Nam Noen and Nong Khiaw are nice tiny villages amidst steep mountains. Cheap guesthouse room costs half a dollar. |
|
|
Phonsavan is especially different, as it is located on the edge of a large
plain or grassland, which measures a few dozen kilometers across.
If you arrive from forested hills of Luang Prabang or steep slopes of
Annamite Chain, this plain seems pale and empty in comparison.
Lots of bomb craters; lots of British Mines Advisory Group vehicles.
The famous Plain of Jars also adds to the eerie feeling. Big stone jars, weighing a few tonnes each I guess, scattered in a couple of locations on this grassland. Some of the jars even have lids! :-) |
|
Roads in Laos are not in very good condition. Often there are more potholes than road surface, and the buses go at about 20 km/h average (if there are no stops). The fastest bus I saw covered 70km in 2 hours -- from Muang Sing to Xieng Kok. This is one of the best roads in Laos, and one of the most beautiful ones too. Muang Sing itself is nothing special, unless you are interested in "hilltribe trekking" or opium; but the road to Xieng Kok makes up for it, really. |
|
|
Flying domestically in Laos is quite an experience ;-)
Lao Aviation has a couple
of small Chinese turboprops, and one French ATR-72. They crash a lot.
But flying Lao Aviation is also lots of fun, and as you are flying only about
500m above the mountaintops, the visual side of things is rather impressive.
So flying Lao Aviation is a bit different from flying domestically within Thailand, where THAI Airways uses Airbus A300's and charges you a few times less. |
